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MapDescription
Start by face climbing up around a wide crack which widens to the point where you can get inside.
Once you are inside the crack there are lots of big holds to make this chimney very easy. There is also a crack that takes regular size gear.
Near the top the chimney widens and the rock becomes smoother and less eroded. Keep chimneying through this and exit to the left. (Towards the river)
Location
The large crack to the right and behind the freestanding pillar with Throbbing Gristle.
Protection
Gear to 3", include small nuts and cams if you want to sew it up, and a sling and draw for the chockstones. Rap off the second chockstone (3 slings/3 quicklinks) or the bolted (chain) anchor shared with Stroking the Chicken.
Routes in (c) King Pins
- 33Shady Chimney5.7Trad