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Peak Mountain 3

Highway 61 Revisited

FA Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.

P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).

P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).

P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).

P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).

P5: The 2nd Ear.

This pitch does have some bird shit on it.

Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).

From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of

Journey Home

(~50', 5.7). The original finish follows

Journey Home

to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up

Twisted

.

Location

Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of

The Scenic Cruise

. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.

Protection

  • (1) Good set of Stoppers

  • (2) Green Alien - #3 Camalot

  • (1) #4 & #5 Camalot.