- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.
P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).
P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).
P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).
P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).
P5: The 2nd Ear.
This pitch does have some bird shit on it.
Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).
From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of
Journey Home
(~50', 5.7). The original finish follows
Journey Home
to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up
Twisted
.
Location
Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of
The Scenic Cruise
. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.
Protection
-
(1) Good set of Stoppers
-
(2) Green Alien - #3 Camalot
-
(1) #4 & #5 Camalot.
Routes in North Chasm View Wall
- 19Highway 61 Revisited5.11-Trad