Qualgeist

This is one of the Black's trio of so-called "sport routes," labelled as such because there happen to be some bolts on the hard climbing. Don't be fooled -- there's plenty of spicy trad business on this line and even the world's longest telescoping stick clip probably won't get you much higher than the second belay. With three pitches rated 5.11 or harder and lots of 5.10, this route makes for a good, sustained challenge. Allow plenty of time (6-8 hours).

The route begins down and left of Apparition. To reach the start scramble up choss below the gaping Ament's Chimney, the large, ugly cleft about 100 yards below the second rappel in the Cruise Gully. Qualgeist climbs the faint arete feature out right of the chimney.

P1: (5.11) Situate yourself below the arete feature. Climb a slightly dirty crack (5.10) through black rock, then move left, climbing past two bolts on tiny crimpers. Step left across the chimney to a bolted belay stance on a ledge.

P2: (5.12b) A spectacular pitch, requiring lots of endurance. Climb the face/arete past 2-3 bolts and move right into a faint corner. Climb the corner, turn a huge roof/detached block (if this goes you're fucked!) and move up into a pegmatite groove, clipping a final bolt en route to a double-bolt belay over the lip of a huge roof.

P3: (5.10+) Climb a thin seam above the belay then neb out up the slabby face above, eventually reaching a decent belay ledge.

P4: (5.10) This pitch climbs up then moves a bit left into the gloom of Ament's chimney before tackling a brilliant, tapering black corner with perfect rock but not much gear. Move right at the top of the corner to a one-bolt belay, which can be backed up.

P5: (5.10+) More nebulous face climbing with the occasional good piece and some cryptic moves takes you up to a hidden belay alcove at the base of a splitter crack on a headwall. This headwall faces towards Ament's Chimney, not the Cruise Gully.

P6: (5.11+) Climb the splitter crack, which starts out as thin fingers before opening up into hands and what-not as it doglegs up to a good belay ledge. A long, pumpy pitch with some great crack climbing on it.

P7: (5.8) Walk left on the ledge and climb the ugly off-width. Move past this onto loose, easier ground and belay at the huge ledge/tier 100 feet below the rim. Scramble off on slabs to reach the rim proper.

Bring a standard Black Canyon rack with emphasis on pieces in the small/middle range. Bring one big (5") cam for the 5.8 off-width on the last pitch.