We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Happy Ending

FA 2012, Philippe Wheelock
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Happy Ending is a great finish to

A Midnight Summers Dream

, bumping the climb from 3* to 4*.  After topping the Sex Comedy variation, walk left briefly, and look for a thin chalky corner to climbers right of the offwidth. There's single bolt ~25 feet up.

Start with tricky stemming and liebacking on flaky rock leading to a few face moves beneath a bolt. Transfer back to the crack, fire the crux, then just before topping out, solve a final overhang. Bring a double length sling for a tree belay at the rim.  It is a little spicy at the start with plenty of gear but less-than-inspiring rock. A slung and extended #4 protects a traverse move before the bolt. This is harder and more sustained than the

AMSD

crux.

Happy Ending is also great as a single pitch if you're cramped for time. Downclimb or rap in from the last 5.6 pitch of

AMSD

using a slung tree (a 70m rope is required and barely gets you to the ledge). You can double rope rap from a tree directly above the route as well.

Protection

A double rack.