Frances' Secret Handshake

This route is dedicated to Frances Hornbrook Staunton, whose generous contribution led to the creation of Staunton State Park.

The climb gets morning sun and afternoon shade.

Onsighting this route will test your 5.11 skill set for sure. Climbing the first pitch, you encounter very steep rock with tricky roof, thin face, and delicate slab cruxes. This can be a very demanding climb. With a little luck, you might even discover the secret handshake.

If you're gunning for the summit you'll have to complete the second pitch, move the belay right to set up. The second pitch pulls a bouldery move right off a ledge with a huge perched block at your back. To prevent both ledge fall injury and the distinct possibility of falling onto the block, this pitch was closely bolted.

The rap anchors are right of the finish and conveniently accessed from the last protection bolt.

Huge props to Tyson for re-discovering Chimney Rock. Thanks for bringing me to this amazing spire! Thanks also to Troy Tadlock for help with summit bolts and rap anchors. Bolting these routes is a ton of work, and it's great to have help!

It is located roughly in the center of the steep, Northeast face, right of The Learning Curve. A control bolt on the slab at the base marks the start.

First pitch: 19 bolts, 35 meters.

Second pitch: 7 bolts, 15 meters.

Strategic use of a few alpine draws on the first pitch helps reduce rope drag.

A 70 meter rope allows for lowering from the first pitch or rapping from the top with two raps (it's probably a good idea to knot the ends...).