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Peak Mountain 3

Mantelpiece

FA Kirk Miller, Adam H. Levine, Sept. 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mantelpiece is a 2 pitch route that summits the northeast side of Chimney Rock.

P1. Climb two slab sections split by a low angle crack. At the top of the slab, trend right to a 2 bolt anchor (5.11-).

P2. The second pitch heads up steeper ground on a patchwork of truncated aretes, bulges, and dihedrals. This geometry results in a number of mantels and rests that lead to an increasingly technical headwall before the topout (5.12-).

Rappel twice with a 60 meter rope.

Alternatively, the route can be climbed as a long single pitch as it was on the FA.

Location

Find the main slab on the Northeast side of Chimney Rock. At its nadir, 3 right-trending bolts indicate the start of the route.

Protection

14 bolts supplemented by trad gear. No gear is required over a 0.75. Extra smalls (0.2-0.5) make things comfortable. Alpine draws are helpful, especially on the 2nd to last bolt on P2.