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Peak Mountain 3

S&M

FA Tom Cecil
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun, face climbing on small edges. A few cruxy sections at 5.8 throughout.  Revised the description after sorting this out and comparing with R&R.

#1 Climb the large, left-facing corner system to an off-width that widens the higher you go. Just before you start into the off-width there is a horizontal crack where you can plug a black tri-cam (I've also used an offset blue/purple master cam). Use the #4 Cam a little ways up, then crank up the off-width to the ledge above. Good idea to place a re-direct piece on the main wall here, then step right to the anchors.(Cold shuts)  5.6 PG

#2 Follow the line of bolts straight up the face. You'll pass a small overhang and then work up the face past left-leaning cracks.  At the end of the face climbing you'll top out on the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge next to a pine tree (the face directly above you is 5.12R). Move right on the ledge to the final corner of R&R. Pull the short corner up to another large ledge. Either continue directly up to Lower Broadway Ledge (careful of loose rock!) or move left to a two-bolt anchor. (Going directly up behind the pine tree is hard 5.12-ish) 5.8 G

Location

Start on the ground below the left-facing corner that starts just up on a ledge.  This is just left of Worrell's Thicket and right of the obvious bolts on Don't Think Twice.

You can either top out onto Lower Broadway Ledge or rap to the ground with 2 60m ropes from the two-bolt anchor on the ledge just below Lower Broadway Ledge. One 60m rope WILL NOT reach the start of the route (and the other anchor) from this upper anchor. A 70m rope will reach the lower anchor.

Alternatively you can top out on Lower Broadway and rap down on the Bee Sting Corner rap line.

Protection

Standard trad rack.  There are 6 or 7 bolts on P2 plus some optional gear placements. Optional two-bolt anchor at the top.

You may want a long sling for the tree on the ledge near the top.