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Peak Mountain 3

General Admission

FA Dan Mitchell, Chris Clarke, Linda Blakeley 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

#1 Climb easy ledges to a left facing 15 ft. long corner.  Climb the corner to a stance and then climb past 3 bolts on the face above to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.  (5.9, 60 ft.)

#2  Move 10' right and climb a short steep left-facing corner.  At the top of the short corner, step left onto a narrow face.  Move carefully up and right around a detached block to broken ledges.  Climb the broken ledges approximately 15 ft. to another to bolt anchor.  (5.3, 40 ft.).  Alternatively, scramble up the wide tree covered ledge about 40 ft. to the same two bolt anchor.

#3  Climb the face above the bolted anchor, making a delicate traverse right at the first bolt before moving back left on good holds, passing 5 more bolts to finish at a gear anchor on Lower Broadway Ledge, 10' left of the first Lower Broadway chimney.  (5.8, 100 ft.)

#4 Climb the crack and arete directly above the gear anchor for about 30 feet to a dirt covered ledge.  Cross the ledge and climb the left-facing corner with a wide crack (#5 or #6 Camalot useful but not necessary) to a small ledge.  Climb the face above, passing four bolts to a belay on the Summit Ledge between UP AND COMING and OLD LADIES.  (5.9, 115 ft.)

Location

Start approximately 50 ft right of Backstage Pass, below a long left-facing corner a short ways up the face.  This is around the corner and up the hill from Worrell's Thicket.

Protection

Trad route with some bolts on each pitch. Bring a standard rack.