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Peak Mountain 3

Skyline Traverse

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Description

A classic and easy route. The ledge at the top of the first pitch is big, but will have beginners clinging to the rock .The first few moves of the 2nd pitch are very exposed.

There is a lot of loose rock on the 3rd pitch, be careful not to dislodge rocks because there will be people below you.

1st Pitch

Climb the chimney and cracks to the left of the ledge for 50ft. At the ledge traverse north to a left facing corner. Climb the corner and face to rings, pitons, or a gear anchor on a large ledge to the left with views to the south. Watch for hollow flakes on this pitch.

2nd Pitch

Step out from the ledge to the large chimney. Be sure to protect your seconds during the first few moves, a fall will swing them into the wall. Continue up the crack and chimney to the right. Climb until you reach a large sloping ledge with a tree. Belay from tree and gear.

3rd Pitch

Continue up the chimney. It eventually breaks down into a rock covered slope. Belay from tree and roots. The 2nd and 3rd pitches can be strung together.

Location

At the Southeast Corner of Seneca. Go up Roy Gap Rd and pass over the large culvert over Roy Gap Run.  Take the first trail on the left.  Pass a signpost at the intersection with the South End Trail and continue up the stone steps.  At a T-intersection (another signpost), turn left.  Follow the trail up and take the switchback to the right.  Follow this up and around to the base area.  Some people start the climb here and belay below the short wall (5th class moves).  Otherwise, rack up here and then boulder up the 5th class section to a large ledge with trees.  The climb starts at the large crack on the left.

Protection

Some fixed gear, you might be able to get something in around three inches, but a rack of nuts and a hex or two would be adequate.  Bolts at the end of P1. Trees at the end of P2 and P3.