St. Valentine's Day Massacre

This is a fun, unique route which climbs knobs and large pockets up the east face of North Condor Crag. It commemorates that fateful day in Chicago in 1929 when Al Capone's gang thinned the herd a bit of Bugsy Moran's rival gang.

Start by traversing up and right past two bolts and make a tricky move(might be the crux) to gain an arete which is followed past four more bolts to the summit of North Condor Crag.

Make sure to plan for some time for condor watching on the summit.  Bring your camera.  You won't be disappointed.

Descend by making two short rappels back to the start of this climb.  One more short rappel brings you back to the base of the crag.  Resist the temptation to rappel directly from the summit back to the start.  It is very difficult to pull the rope and you may end up getting stuck.

Start from the top of the first pitch of the Condor Crag Regular Route at the double bolt anchor with chains.

Six recently replaced protection bolts(one less than the number of murdered gangsters) to a two-bolt anchor at the top of North Condor Crag. Long slings help with rope drag. Bring a 1/2" and 3/4" cam for the first pitch of the Condor Crag Regular Route.