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Peak Mountain 3

Condorks

FA Adam Long and John Bolte November 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a super chossy somewhat runout climb around the corner (downhill) from Condor Condiment. We were actually looking for Condor Condiment and stumbled upon this route by accident. It wasn't until we were on the climb that Brad (wrote the guide book) started yelling across the canyon that we were on the wrong route. Thanks again for your help Brad.If you are looking to climb a very dirty 5.9 (5.7 for you Yosemite snobs) then this is the climb for you.

This one-pitch route is on the north side of Condor Crag - South, but is included here because it is so close to routes on Condor Crag - North’s north side. It starts on top of a thin rock fin, 50 feet right of The Great Chimney. Start by moving down and stemming to the first bolt (it’s at the same height as the top of the fin). Move up and right past two bolts and then up past two more. Although the route’s first five bolts are easy to see from the rock fin, no others are visible. Bolt six is 30 feet above bolt five and bolt seven is 25 feet higher. One more bolt protects climbing to a two-bolt anchor 145 feet from the rock fin (eight lead bolts total). Descend by rappel.

NOTE: The bolt pattern seems nearly identical to Condor Condiment with a stray bolt on the right of both.

We all thought this route will become a beaut once it gets more climbs so do your part and brave the send. The view from the top is pretty great.

Location

It is a brutal bushwhack down, but once you come off the main trail, if you are facing the wall, you will see a chimney (the great chimney if memory serves). To the left is the four pitch Condor Condiment and to the right is Condorks.

Protection

Bolts and "camouflaged chain" anchors