Condor Crag Regular Route

This is the first recorded climb at the then Pinnacles National Monument.  After the first two pitches you can choose the fourth class scramble to either the north or south summit. The first ascent party climbed both.  You can, too!  It is not clear if the first ascent party, at the start, climbed the crumbly crack on the left or the crack in the center, but the center crack has become the traditional start.

Due to rope drag, the climb is traditionally done in three short pitches. Pitch 1 surmounts the 20' finger crack to a comfortable ledge with bolts and chains(5.7).  Pitch 2 climbs a chimney past a bolt to a stance on the north wall with 2 bolts and chains(5.4).  From here it is an easy, solid scramble to the top of the north summit.  The south summit is a more committing climb being steeper and containing it's fair share of loose rock.  Proceed with caution.

To descend from the north summit, it is best to do three, short single rope rappels reversing the route of ascent otherwise pulling your ropes might be difficult.

To descend from the south summit do two rappels, the first to the top of the first pitch and then a short rappel to the ground.

Both summits are excellent places to watch the elegant and graceful California Condors rule the sky.

From the north, Condor Crags is the first major formation one reaches after ascending the long rock staircase with metal pipe railings.  From the south, Condor Crags is the last formation one encounters before the long rock staricase(not to be confused with the staircase to the south of Long's Folly).

An obvious 20' thin crack marks the start.

A 1/2" and 3/4" cam protect the thin crack. Take five quick draws for the bolts and anchors above.