The Canary

P1: Start up the first pitch of watchtower standard and climb up to a ledge on your left. Move left on this ledge and build a belay at the base of the Elevator Shaft. 5.6

P2: Climb up into the Elevator Shaft and stem up, staying towards the front of the chimney. A crack on the climber's left provides protection. When you are no longer able to stem, commit to steep juggy climbing. Continue up until an obvious stance is reached and holds seem to disappear. Go left on harder-than-it-looks-climbing and pull some slopers around onto the face (a hidden purple metolius placement protects these moves) to reach a good stance. Fiddle in some gear, move a little further left, and then continue up to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10a/b

P3: Climb straight up until you reach a line of bolts that leads you to the upper arete. Finish up the top of the elevator shaft and belay off of a tree. 5.9+

This route begins in the same spot as The Joker and climbs a steep hand and finger crack in the left wall of the Elevator Shaft.

Standard rack down to a purple Metolius or BD X4. Extra .3-#1 if you want to place a lot of pro.