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Peak Mountain 3

Don't Look Down

FA Jim Scott (Solo) 80's
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route can be done as a single pitch outing (2 bolt anchor at the top) or as a variation for the first pitch of Mother's Day.

It climbs surprisingly solid solid rock through a fractured face/crack system that generally trends up and left. While never desperate, the climbing is rather continuous pulling on flat 2 pad edges and the occasional finger jam.

Despite appearances, the rock is generally quite solid (test holds though---this is Montana, after all!) and makes an excellent pitch of climbing uncharacteristic of much of the Gallatin. It is unfortunately a bit licheny/dirty, but would clean up well with a bit of traffic.

Location

The route climbs the fractured crack/face that trends to the left through the generally clean face of the north side of the small buttress that forms the first pitch of Mother's Day. From the start of the Watchtower Standard Route or the bombay chimney, this would be around the corner to the left (north).

It is located about 20 feet to the left/uphill/east of the wide, stair-stepped crack that is the North Crack Start (5.6) to Mother's Day, and has a small built up belay ledge. Not to be confused with the vegetated vertical corner ~10' to the left.

Protection

While the gear is generally good, it can be a bit devious to find. Placements generally take the form of small pods every bodylength or so, along with a fixed bashie at around 3/4 height (crux?). This would be a hard lead if the climbing is at your technical limit, as it generally requires a plug-and-go approach and climbing upwards only on faith that another placement will appear.

Doubles to 1" with a set of stoppers. Extra TCUs/Aliens/C3's and offset stoppers useful, but not mandatory.

The fixed bashie at 3/4 height could probably be backed up with a marginal .3 C4.

Obvious two bolt anchor on the wall above the ledge. As of 7/2020, there are only single quicklinks on each bolt for the a nice rope twisting experience. Could desperately use a length of chain on each.