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Peak Mountain 3

The Thief

FA Patrick Odenbeck and Tom Kingsbury 8/28/20
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1:  Climb up the first pitch of the Watchtower and trend left before the ledge to meet the base of the Elevator Shaft.  Enter the Elevator Shaft and climb on the right hand side of the inside of chimney to a small ledge inside the chimney on the right side.  Set the belay here.

P2:  Get psyched for a 200ft mega pitch.  Leave the belay and face climb the juggy corner to a small ledge on the corner of the arete. Traverse the face to gain a thin hands placement.  This is your first piece and it is 40' from the belay- falling is not an option.   Climb this crack for about 10 feet this is part of the Joke Direct.  Leave the crack and head up and left through the roof section (crux).  At the final roof enter the narrowest part of the Elevator Shaft (wild exposure) and grovel your way up until you can no longer stem or chimney.    Then commit to interesting climbing on the inside right of the Elevator Shaft and bring it all the way to the top of the Watchtower.

Tricky placements and many long runouts between pieces are the norm on this route be forewarned this route is not for everyone.  It was mini-traxioned many times before led.

Rappel Watchtower Standard Route, one 60m gets you down, but tie the ends!! They just make it! Or alternatively hike down the loose gully to the south between the Pineapple Buttress and The Watchtower.

Location

This route begins in the same spot as The Joker.

Protection

All gear. Heavy on finger sizes and double #1 and #2 camalots.