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Description
Apparently, many think this is the best route on Power Dome. I haven't done enough to say myself, but it was pretty great, with the rock being maybe a tad cooler than the already exceptional PD rock found on other routes I have done.
P1 - 10d 150ft. 7 bolts - Start off the flat slab. Runout but easier climbing leads past 1 bolt to the second bolt. I felt good putting 2 draws on it. Crux to the 3rd bolt up and right (or is that right and up ;) ) maybe 10-15 ft. Hardest moves come close to the second bolt. Bolts lead up, left, then up on easier but sick climbing.
P2 - 5.9 150 ft. 4 bolts. - straight up the black streak. First bolt is maybe 40ft. off the belay but it's all jugs.
P3 - 5.7 150 ft. no bolts - continue up, passing some gear options in pockets and then a flake. 50 ft. up and a bit left from the flake is a bolted anchor
P4 - 5.6 200 ft. - Easier ground up and left with some pro lead into Nukey. Belay at the big tree or continue to top
P5 - Short to top.
Location
Route follows the massive black streak 2 routes to the right of Nukey. Traverse down and right on 4th class ramp from that route to reach a big flat slab at the base of the route.
Protection
Maybe 8 draws. Light rack to #.75. I placed a #3 in a pocket on P3 but there are other options. Tri Cams could be used, but not as essential as on other routes.
Routes in West Face
- 15Esto Power5.10dAlpine · Trad