Ohm Sweet Ohm

'

Ohm Sweet Ohm' (5.8, 5 pitches)

Pitch #1 (5.7, 85')

Start at a white dike about 25 feet above Helms Creek and 50 feet left of 'Power Gimpn' (2-bolt anchor). Climb easy terrain (5.5) to the first bolt, located up and slightly left from the bottom anchors. Continue straight up to a subtle right facing corner and then a small foot ledge at the top of the corner. From here, work out right and up to the second bolt. Pass this (5.7) and up to a third bolt. From here, climb up and left on runout 5.4 to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch #2 (5.8+, 135'):

Head straight up then slightly right from the anchors to reach the first bolt. Climb to a dike to reach the second bolt. From there, climb out right then up to the third bolt. Continue straight up, trending slightly left, passing four more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux of the route is passing the 5th bolt (5.8+).

Pitch #3 (5.7, 125'):

Head straight up, passing two bolts (5.7). After the 2nd bolt, continue up then right to reach a small left facing corner with a crack (yellow Alien). Continue to the next bolt and then reach a cool circular crystal dike feature (tricky small gear). Continue up and pass the final bolt before reaching a 2-bolt anchor on a nice ledge. NOTE: it is possible to escape off to the right to a Jeffery pine (4th).

Pitch #4 (5.7, 200'):

From here, locate a vertical dike about 80' above. This feature signatures the way to go (just left of the dike). Climb up runout 5.4 to a left facing corner then to a small arching roof. Place gear here and then climb out right then up. One last chance to place gear under a small lip before surmounting a featured bulge (5.7) to a stately ledge. Be sure to place a long directional at the ledge/walkway before scrambling left for 60' (3rd class). The gear anchor (small cams) is at 200'. So be sure to keep measured communication with your belayer in order to find the start of the last pitch. NOTE: there is a way to circumnavigate the bulge by going out right (easy 5th) to reach the ledge. Also, there is a way to escape off right (4th).

Pitch #5 (5.6, 200'):

Climb up from the ledge to a shallow right facing corner, passing a small flake along the way (small gear). Once at the corner, you'll find some cool solution pockets that will take Tricams (red to brown). Also of note, there are a pair of good threader holes at the top of the corner to girth hitch. From the top of the corner, start trending out left, passing a roof above. Continue out left on easy 5th and follow a crack next to a slanting left corner. A series of large holes lead out left and eventually to a nice ledge with a right facing corner. Gear anchor here (pro to 2"). Scramble 3rd class to the summit

'Ohm Sweet Ohm' is located between 'Solar Energy' (5.9X) and 'Power Gimpin' (5.7). There are two possible ways to approach the route. Both ways involve hiking around the backside of Power Dome (east side), following the creek until it starts to drop into a series of pools then to Helms Creek below.

The first (and preferred) option to descend to the start of Ohm Sweet Ohm would be by locating the top out ring anchors of 'Elektric Eel', located near a small dead pine (the Courtright guide shows a "green tree", page 94). From the small pools of the creek, scramble (3rd class) up the southern shoulder of Power Dome before reach a small dead pine tree above and the ring anchors nearby  Rappel two pitches from here using (2) 70m ropes, trending left during the descent. Locate the 1st pitch ring anchors of 'Power Gimp'n' to rap the remaining way to the anchors of 'Ohm Sweet Ohm'.

The second option is to continue down and to the right of the creek (easy 2nd) to a series of ledges above the Helms Creek. Locate a long white dike that stretches along the base to the north. Head along the dike, which involves some sketchy 4th/5th class movement, 25 feet above the creek. Locate the start of Power Gimp'n. The start of Ohm Sweet Ohm is approximately 55' to its left (2 bolt anchor).

• (2) 70 meter ropes

• Pro to 2"

• Tricams helpful (Red to Brown)

• Several runners w/carabiners

• Quickdraws