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This is a new route that starts on the right wall of a large inset right of Not Wizard's Gate. It has a nice position but needs a good brushing.

The crux comes in the first 10 feet as the route ascends the short right wall and then hugs the arete as it skirts around a short overhang on the left. After the overhang, head toward the middle of the slab and the first belay. (Skip the low first anchor in the middle of the slab as this is located on the parallel route to the right). The second pitch heads back to the arete, climbs blocky rock on the left side, then jumps back on to the slab and the top anchor (5.6).

Right of this top anchor is an attractive headwall with 4 bolts. This is the top of the parallel route on the right (a much harder route by far). If you're up for 5.10-, forget the top anchor of the route you just climbed, and head up the headwall to a higher anchor. The headwall will be the best part of the climb.

Rap the parallel route in three raps with a 70 meter rope. A 60 meter rope may require an additional rappel off the low anchor.

30 feet right of Not Wizard's Gate is a large inset. On the left wall is an easy looking route, and on the right wall is the one described here. Just right of that is the parallel route up the middle of the slab and overhangs.

Take 18 quickdraws or so if you intend to climb the headwall.