Hobbit's Way

This is a variation on

Left Center

route that diverges left part way up pitch 2 of it. Solid enjoyable and well-protected climbing.

P1. Do either start to

Left Center

.

P2. Start up P2 of

Left Center

, but when you get to the base of the crux stemming flake/corner, move up and left (crux), and continue straight up obtuse, right-facing corner heading toward a prominent roof (fairly sustained 5.8-9). 20' or so below the roof, look for a way to move left. Move left 20' or so, and set up a hanging belay (rope drag was bad for me at this point and I had little gear left - it is a long pitch), 170'.

P3. Climb straight up eventually to a ledge. Move left on ledge to get up to and into a hanging, right-facing corner (5.8). Follow this corner and the easier ground above it to the top (this will require simul-climbing 20-30' or so) or find a convenient spot to break up this pitch, 200+'.

Start the same as

Left Center

route (left of Wizard's Gate).

Standard rack.