This route is super fun with an array of different kinds of movement on a short rock. Start by making some delicate slab moves into a bulge with small, but positive crimpers. Traverse under the roof via more intense crimping and pull into the roof on good finger buckets. Make a powerful move to a giant jug and then power up through more good crimping. Just a great route!

Piles of Trials

Is It Ready Yet...Moe

Unfamiliar Strangers

Geritol Generation

Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed

Aardvark

Crack Corner

Beast Food Right

Baby Dog

Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello

Cold Snap

Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food)

Beast Food Left

Nice To Be Here

Reversal Roof

Triple Play

Familiar Strangers

Cannabis Sportiva

Lazy Day

Gull Whackers

Free Willie

Tuesday Afternoon

Automatic Choke

Joint Venture

Lovely to See You

Melancholy Man

Threshold Of A Dream

Animal Riots Activist

Dihedral

Old Dihedral

We Don't Do Crack

Blockhead

Animation

A fantastic "Gym Style" climb, this is the third route from the left (west) on the west buttress of Animal World. It is somewhat camouflaged behind a pine tree on the approach. Perfect holds with thoughtfully placed clips lead up increasingly steeper and harder climbing to an incredible sloper move to surmount a roof. Don't let your guard down for the finish as the climbing switches gears into a 11a slab to the anchors!

The start is the crux and coming out of the upper corner.  Clip the first bolt and go left to the arete (crux) and then up the face (loose) to the second bolt...clip the third bolt and then fire up the nice face to the anchor.

Really good route that will get better with more ascents.

Start at a short steep wall 30' right of Animation/Jaycene's Dance.  Climb the steep wall past two bolts (crux), then angle right and up easier (5.7-5.8) rock to the top.

Less sustained than Animation, but with a harder crux.

This is a trad line to the right of

Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello

that is a bit tricky with some scary-looking blocks in its middle.

Start to the right of

Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello

below a tiny crack/roof/lieback.  Get pro under this bitty roof and delicately lieback this feature.  Continue up on an intermittent crack fighting a small bush to a series of protrusions (that had a bunch of loose rocks atop them) at mid-height.  These features tested solid from above, but they were too precarious-looking to not avoid from below.  Continue up angling slightly left to the anchors of

Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello

.

There is a chance that the 1st D'Antonio

Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs

guidebook had this switched with the

Dihedral

to the left of

Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello

, but that line is much easier than 5.9.

It's pretty much a one-move-wonder, but this 12a is fun anyways.  20 feet of easy climbing leads to 2 seams that offer a fun sequence of sidepulls and foot smears.  The roof above the crux pulls out onto a slab that puts the anchors within reach.

There is another tiny line to the left of the

right-facing dihedral

on the left side of the crag. It sort of beckons, but the climbing is not continuous. Still, if you're there, you're wanting one more line, like warmer rock, why not?

Climb a crack-like feature in the narrow buttress around and left of the

right-facing dihedral

on the left side of Animal World. The crux is pulling over a bulge ~20' up. There is a somewhat fragile flake to pinch/pull on out right. Traverse rightward to a bolt anchor or finish on licheny terrain up and less right.

Crack Corner is admittedly an obscure climb that is overshadowed by the several stellar routes on Animal World.  That being said, like

Old Dihedral

, it's a fun climb and worth the attention if you brought your rack up the hill.

Crack Corner is the second route encountered on the lower cliff when hiking up the trail, immediately to the left of

Animal Rights Activist

.  Look for a right-facing corner with parallel cracks ending at a tree.  Climb the cracks and pull through a small bulge about 1/2 way up (crux).  The climbing felt a little harder than the 5.7 rating, but the protection is excellent all the way to the top where you can anchor off the tree and boulders.  To descend, downclimb the gully immediate to the left of the corner.

Either climb

Joint Venture

(sport) or the corner to its left (trad) to a left-angling crack/groove protected by 5 bolts. From the undercling at the start of the crack clip the second bolt and reach up and right to a crimp. Lieback up the blunt arete avoiding the holds on

Joint Venture

.

Baby Dog is located just to the left of

Animation

. There is a 5.7 crux at the third and fourth bolts and another 5.7 section climbing past the last three bolts, This route was bolted to be a very safe lead for children and other novice leaders.

The crux is at the 5th bolt. Then follow good edges to the anchors shared with Geritol Generation (now deleted from the database).

This is the obvious line left of Free Willie. I had always been put off this climb by the hideous-looking roof at the bottom (with one bolt near the lip), so I decided to skirt this problem by starting on Free Willie. Good choice!

Clipping a very long sling on Free Willie's second bolt, traverse left about 25 feet into the main line, with decent pro. Interesting face and crack climbing lead past a suspect pin and a good bolt, with good supplementary pro. Easier climbing leads to a second crux and another bolt. There's a newish lower-off anchor at the top. Highly worthwhile.

This route is on the lower Animal World buttress, immediately left of

Joint Venture's

upper half. Where

Joint Venture

heads to the right of the 2 bolt mid-height anchor, Feeding the Beast stays to the left of the line of bolts on the upper section.  It could be rapped in two, short raps if you don't have a 60m rope.

Climb up the fun 11a/b face at the base of

Joint Venture

through 4 bolts, past the 2 bolt anchor, stay left and up the dihedral (5.8 or 9-ish...takes gear) to the start of the bolts and the meat of the pitch. The awkward crux will call on your crack technique and your endurance, so don't dawdle until you clip the anchors.

Though the rock quality and the gear is good, I'm not sure it merits two full stars--- maybe 1.5 ....

Either climb

Joint Venture

(sport) or the corner to its left (trad) to a left-angling crack/groove protected by 5 bolts.  Climb the crack directly clipping the bolts out right.

The crux is technical face moves up and past a thin flake layback. Cool route and more pleasant way to reach the upper section of "Lovely to See You".

Reversal Roof climbs more like a boulder problem than a route.  Three kneebars and a couple deadpoints will get you to the lip and over the large roof.  Depending on your beta and how the climb "fits" you it may seem easier (or harder) than V7 (13a).  Some crumbly rock at the start so pre-clipping is recommended for safety.  Start slightly right of the bolts and work through the overhangs, pulling through the roof at the second bolt.

Three people on the first ascent, and three crux sections...a triple play. Varied, interesting climbing all the way up.

Climb straight up a narrowing crack to a slot. Work up the slot and step left to a ledge. Climb a short left-facing corner and crank up right to a slab. Continue to an overhang, climb up left onto a pedestal, and surmount the overhang. Continue more easily to the anchor.

A harder variation (10d?) turns the overhang a bit more to the right.

This route is a reasonable climb on reasonably decent protection although somewhat indistinct. You can find this general line on the Animal World lower tier. go past the first few short sport routes and around a right-facing dihedral to a taller wall. This is the wall containing Animation, the consummate local warmup. Just right of this is a system of cracks and flakes that works up, up and right on flakes, then back left to finish in a crack. The protection is mostly solid stoppers, but the occasional cam or two is nice. The sport route Unfamiliar Strangers is just to the right of this, and that route and this one may share some territory briefly near 2 of the bolts, depending upon your exact line.

Cannabis Sportiva starts left of the

Joint Venture

corner on the West Buttress of Animal World, immediately right of a small roof 10 feet off the ground.  Look high and see a short line of bolts up a steepening face near the top of the cliff.

From the ground, roll up easy cracks and ledges, then mantle a shelf at the start of the steeper climbing where bolts indicate the way.  Blaze up interesting and sometimes reachy zig-zag moves on crystalline stone of increasing angle, where holds get bigger as you get higher, until a very positive horn is hit for the last clip.  Grab a token puff of chalk, shake out and inhale for the big move.  Fire up powerfully from the horn, or use a fingerlock that seems too paranoid for 11a, and grope for some high, blind slopers atop the face to clip the chains with an ear-to-ear grin.

A fun pitch, made slightly more enjoyable by sensible bolting; sure to provide a buzz.

Follow 5 bolts through a bulging face. Good, fun, warm-up climb.

Well, you could call this Older Dihedral...but it isn't in Rossiter's nor either of the more recent Rolofson's guides, so what the 'eck?  In the middle of the lower Animal World cliff is a large, right-facing dihedral capped with a chimney.  That's the line.  This is temporarily named for its easy acceptance of those British hexes...don't be offended if it is your route.

Head up the obvious corner with some slippery feet to start.  Of course, you will not only be prepared  for gulls but, here in the Front Range, also pigeons and bats.  About 40 feet up, you can choose to either continue up the chimney (less appealing) or angle right along a crack (best bit) to the 8th bolt of

Jaycenne's Dance aka Animation

.  Continue to its top.  Rap.

Note, there are still some loose flakes on the route.  We didn't want to clean it with dogs and ladies below.

A classic sport climb on the Lower Animal World crag, the route lies on the wall on the far right face of the lower Animal World rock.  Well-protected moves on jugs lead up an ever-steeper wall to a fun mantle move just below the anchors.

Tuesday Afternoon (TA) pulls the roof just left of

Melancholy Man

(MM) and joins

MM

at the second bolt on the slab.  Climb up to the roof, undercling, clip, and boulder over the roof.  TA is a fun variant start to

MM

with slightly harder moves at the roof.

Full disclosure: I backed off from the lead and opted to TR the dirty crux, which promptly spit me off. After brushing it with my fingers, I was able to do the moves, but it was still very insecure due to the flakes and lichen. The route is little-traveled and is ok for moves and position, but it really still needs a good wipe-down. I did not have a brush with me when I did it, so it still needs one. The moves and position are cool enough to merit a few stars, but the dirt and loose crystals take them away: 1 star for now, 2 or more if it cleans up.

Just right of

Animal Riots Activist

and just beyond the neighboring 12b, there is a RP crack that goes up past some intermittent flakes and cracks though an overhang to reach the top of the left side of that arete. This is around left from

Cannabis Sportiva

and

Joint Venture

.

Climb up thin, moderate cracks, and start plunking in the brass steel and other tiny wires. Reach up to some horizontal flakes, and get established and plug in a nest of them just before the climbing gets steep. Cast off into steep land on a pumpy pinch and a good finger lock. Place a good TCU out of the finger lock and crack the crux (easier for fatter fingers, rattly for smaller) then place another cam over head and pull over the top of the route.

Place a directional and walk left or right to some sport anchors. A TR could be rigged if so desired, with a creative directional. You'd can climb the 12a or 12b neighboring sport route to get up to that ledge, neither of which seem harder than this climb... or you can climb one of the easy crack systems around to the right to reach the same ledge.

Lying in the middle of the Lower Animal World cliff, this route leads up thin face holds to a bulging face near the top.

P1. The route starts below a large roof that is about 30 feet up.  It then climbs around the left of the roof, which is followed by easy climbing to the two bolt anchor.

P2. The second pitch continues up a bolted bulging arete to another set of anchors at the top of the cliff.

The crux is a powerful sequence out and over the lower roof. The name is keeping in theme with the Moody Blues and comes from Vaino's visit back to Boulder Canyon and seeing some old friends.

The crux is getting established over the roof.

The crux is a series of hard technical moves up the arete and over the small bulge.

Great moves on very solid rock...maybe one of the best routes at Animal World.

Will be a classic.

Keeping with Moody Blues theme...the name comes from a classic album from them.

This is a obvious and decent line that climbs easier than it looks.  It drew the eye as one climbed

Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello

and noted chalk within.  Given its obvious nature and its difficulty rating, it may have been ascended a long, long time ago and  continued up what has been called "POS" to the top of the crag in 2-3 pitches.

There are variety of starts including a harder, delicate one on the left.  Move into the dihedral.  Find nice holds to the right of the dihedral to supplement the crack jams. Pop out to the right at the top of the dihedral.  Continue upwards.

This is a fun, short trad climb just to the left of

Joint Venture

.  Rolofson calls it 5.8; Rossiter 5.7.  Regardless, it follows the obvious crack/dihedral up to a set of anchors you can easily see from the base of the cliff. The protection is good, the climbing is fun.  A nice change of pace from the more rigorous bolted routes on this lower cliff.

Same start for Is It Ready...Moe and climb the crack. Gear to a #4 friend.

Climb

Joint Venture

for 2 bolts then move up and right following a thin crack that leads to a difficult traverse right to a stem rest in the corner.  Move back out left and climb through the roofs via some wild, inobvious moves and finish on the face above.

This description & its comments are combined.  Since this was the earlier contribution,

Jon Cannon's

was merged into this one.

This is a great warm-up or a good lead for 5.8 climbers (it's "Turbo Bitchin'," according to a friend of mine). Jugs are plentiful on this vertical face. The route is on the Lower Animal World cliff and ascends an obvious line of bolts in the middle of a tall vertical face. The route lies just right of '

Joint Venture

.'

This route is located on the wall facing west in the West Buttress area. Good holds are plentiful for the first 60 feet or so of this route, and then start to thin out somewhat. Balance and footwork are paramount for the final series of moves, where the wall bulges out slightly. It is a very fun route, with thoughtfully-placed bolts.

Eds. Per

Richard Rossiter

: this should not have the name Jaycene's Dance listed as an AKA.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Animal World