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Peak Mountain 3

Automatic Choke

FA Dan Hare and Kent Lugbill, June 1980
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Full disclosure: I backed off from the lead and opted to TR the dirty crux, which promptly spit me off. After brushing it with my fingers, I was able to do the moves, but it was still very insecure due to the flakes and lichen. The route is little-traveled and is ok for moves and position, but it really still needs a good wipe-down. I did not have a brush with me when I did it, so it still needs one. The moves and position are cool enough to merit a few stars, but the dirt and loose crystals take them away: 1 star for now, 2 or more if it cleans up.

Just right of

Animal Riots Activist

and just beyond the neighboring 12b, there is a RP crack that goes up past some intermittent flakes and cracks though an overhang to reach the top of the left side of that arete. This is around left from

Cannabis Sportiva

and

Joint Venture

.

Climb up thin, moderate cracks, and start plunking in the brass steel and other tiny wires. Reach up to some horizontal flakes, and get established and plug in a nest of them just before the climbing gets steep. Cast off into steep land on a pumpy pinch and a good finger lock. Place a good TCU out of the finger lock and crack the crux (easier for fatter fingers, rattly for smaller) then place another cam over head and pull over the top of the route.

Place a directional and walk left or right to some sport anchors. A TR could be rigged if so desired, with a creative directional. You'd can climb the 12a or 12b neighboring sport route to get up to that ledge, neither of which seem harder than this climb... or you can climb one of the easy crack systems around to the right to reach the same ledge.

Protection

Several nests of HB anchors or RPs, a few other nuts and a 0.75" and 2" cam. Place enough that you are confident to fall on the thin stuff - it is likely to happen. Some of the gear is pumpy to place.