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Peak Mountain 3

Plate Lunch

FA Todd Wells solo, 2001
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the ledge above Ride the Pony, enter the slot and climb gingerly over wedged blocks and through a bulge (5.8) to a ledge with two half inch bolts (placed  by Gardner and Chestnut on an early attempt). This is an optional belay, but, if used, every effort should be made to protect the belayer from the potential rockfall above. From the ledge, climb up and around a huge detached tongue then up to a stance beneath a bulge. Beware the loose blocks on the right. Creep past these on the left  then aid improbably over the bulge to a horizontal seem with a fixed pin (A2+). Pull onto a ledge where you can contrive an awkward belay, or alternately, climb the wide slot leading to the top of the buttress. Two rappels are required to return to the base. Note: this route has considerable objective danger.

Location

This route climbs Ride the Pony to the vegetated ledge beneath the Mace and Chain buttress. Plate Lunch ascends the striking slot on the left side of the buttress, a slot bristling with loose blocks capped by a roof. 

Protection

A full trad rack with double cams, including one each of # 4, 5 and 6 camalots and a healthy selection of knife blades, beaks and small angles.