Suck Boy

Pitch 1 Mantle up on to the shelf at the base of a short and shallow right facing dihedral. Climb up through this and gain the old 1/4” bolt with a homemade aluminum hanger. This is bolt is from Todd and Forests route Canyon Man which continues to travel left through heads pins and a rivets up a dihedral to the ledge system out left. It then eventually climbs out the side of the visor. For Suck Boy climb to the next right facing corner and follow this to its end and cut right to some flakes. Follow flakes and overlaps aiming for the orange face above. Climb the beak seam through perfect orange rock to more broken territory eventually free climbing up to the large grey alcove above capped by the biggest roof on the prow. Climb through poor shale out the left side of the roof and locate a SS bolt and fixed tricam from an earlier attempt. Build an anchor using this bolt and other gear placements on the face. A2 5.8 Pitch 2 Nail out the left side of the roof and gain the rivet that marks a previous party’s high point. After this continuing nailing through overhangs and mantle onto the large ledge above. Sneak to the right of the ledge and climb the face above utilizing free climbing and more beaking to gain the last big roof. Aid out the roof landing on the giant ledge. Walk to the left of the ledge and build a belay in good rock. A3+ 5.8 Pitch 3 climb a 1/2” crack through the short overhang. Travel strait back over ledge above to gain the crack on the left side of ledge. Climb this to the “summit” C1 5.10 Descent make one single rope rap back to the ledge and a double rope rap to the ground. Otherwise hike climbers left and make 3 single rope raps down the face to left of the prow utilizing small trees.

Continue down the concentration camp passing the last of the main routes. You will pass a running stream or two and lots of shorter broken cliff line. The route will be the first LARGE over hanging buttress you run in to ten minutes past dos padres. There is a large flat rock at the base great for laying out gear and flaking ropes. There is also an old bolt with an aluminum home made hanger 15/20’ up. This was installed on the FA of Canyon Man. Cross reference the picture provided.

Doubles in cams 00-2, Triples in .3-..75, set of tricams,6 lost arrows, 3 small beaks, 3 medium beaks, 1 large beak, 2 rurps, 4 knife blades, 1 large aluminum circle head and punch in case the existing one blows.