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Peak Mountain 3

Sarcophagus

FA R. Rositer, some time in the 2000s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Sarcophagus is a short variation or direct start sort of affair to one of two good routes.

This route adds difficulty and new territory to either

The Dead Zone

or

Dead Can Dance

, which otherwise share a common start just to the right and allows both to be climbed as entirely separate routes.

Locate the beginning of

Dead Can Dance

and a bolt a few meters up and just to the left. Start off directly below this bolt, perhaps with a spotter or a stickclip and pull up past that and onward, heading directly up to intercept

The Dead Zone

where it diverges to the left from

Dead Can Dance

, placing gear along the way from there.

Location

Just about 4 feet to the left of the normal start of

The Dead Zone

and

Dead Can Dance

, there is a short bulge near the ground. Find a set of poor sidepulls, pull up and over to an initial bolt for those two routes, and continue onward past 2 more until reaching the point at which the routs diverge, then follow whichever you chose to a 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

This variation climbs past a low crux to reach the first of 3 low bolts, then on into

The Dead Zone

, which takes gear up to 2". The crux is low and merits a spotter, TR, or a stickclip.