Dead Can Dance

Start just right of a pine tree at the right side of The Wall of the Dead. Climb a corner just left of the arete to a ledge. Continue up another corner and move right to an airy stance on the arete. Work up to a roof, and turn it on the left. Step left and climb an awkward corner to the anchor.

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. A few longer runners to use by the roof can help with rope drag.

[Eds. Note that the 2 bolts from

Dead Zone aka Sarcophagus

just to the left can confuse the unwary, onsight climber. If you clip these, you need 9 QDs.]