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Peak Mountain 3

Dead Easy

FA Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart Aug. 7, 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Four Stars !? No joke. I've climbed it 10 or 20 times now (From "launch Ledge", soloing to the trees to set up solo-top-ropes) and it continues to impress with the quality and timelessness. If P2 of this climb isn't the best "first Trad Lead" in the state (if not the Northeast), then I don't know what climb could be.According to Webster's guidebook, this is one of six (6 !) First Ascents made by Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart on Aug 7th 1973, the first exploration of Rainbow! Check out the historic photo posted by Paul!25-30 ft. START From the toe, walk back uphill on the path (towards the Perfect Wave area) and after about 30-40 ft cut back left towards the slab and find a multi-trunked oak tree right at the edge of the slab. Alternatively, climb/scramble to Launch Ledge and then climb the easy friction to the tree island belay at the end of P1.P1- From the multi-trunked oak, move up and left through the "grey powder-lichen" ( holds brushed in 2014) to cleaner rock. Climb directly up, ending at the left end of the tree island. (Same island as for Livin' Easy.) Belay at the far left of the island at a clump of small trees. 80+/- ft 5.1-5.2Alternate - from the very toe of the cliff scramble up and left 30-40 ft, then up to the big overturned roots of a fallen tree, and onto very low angle slab. (”Coloring Book, 5.7 starts here, as does the original start to Face Dances) From here scramble ( or climb belayed) up the obvious crack-corner that leads up and right 40-50 ft to the “launch ledge” and its belay/rap anchor. ( several climbs start here) . To get to the end of the original P1, climb on good friction (5.2 -5.3 or so) up and right for 25-30 ft.P2- Make the move up just left of the clump of trees, and then follow the steps and dike up. (Lots of gear potential). At the top, move up and left to the double bolt anchor. 110 +/- ft 5.1-5.2Descend - Rap with 2 x 60 meter ropes to the START, or to "launch ledge", where you can TR both variations of Rhino Skin. It is also possible, (again with 2 x 60m ropes) and a little tension-traversing to rappeller's left, to clip the anchor on L'Anniversaire and thus TR that normally "X" climb as well.With a single 70m rope it is possible to rap back to the tree-island belay. (This rap may also "go" with a "cut-slightly-long" 60m rope.) From the tree ledge rap to the ground off a 6-inch diameter maple tree with fixed rap rings .

Protection

Take lots, the pitch "gobbles it up". Beginning trad leaders could practice setting gear on this pitch, winner sets the most!