- Edit (TBD)
Description
Located at the very beginning of the South Face. In between Ghastly Gulch and the Friction Dandy slab/Looking Glass.
A well protected, fun romp that links a series of ledge systems to the top of the wall.
6 short pitches.
Classic. Go climb it.
P1. Short pitch. Locate the line of shiny SS bolts. Difficult friction down low leads to easer terrain above. Belay at a ledge two bolts. 5.10a/b
P.2. Move up into the large flake. Clip bolts, place a large cam, them move up onto the bolt protected face. Another cam placement, then easy face to a large ledge. Only long pitch on the whole climb. 2 bolt belay. 5.9
P3. Head right on the easy crack Go to a large ledge, ignore the bolted belay and move right along the ledge to the base of a corner system.
Build gear belay
. 3rd class
P4. Move up the corner (small cams) then move right, a reachy move to a jug. Bolt anchor. 5.9
P5. Move left onto a easy face, up to another big ledge. 2 bolt anchor. 5.7
P6. 5.9 move bolt protected, then short 5.7 face to the top. Belay off bolt anchor. High fives all around.
Pitches 4-6 could be combined into a single pitch
Protection
10 quick draws, single cams to 3"