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Peak Mountain 3

Poking Papa Bear

FA Jerry and Lynnea Anderson, Csuri Odrey, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Located at the very beginning of the South Face. In between Ghastly Gulch and the Friction Dandy slab/Looking Glass.

A well protected, fun romp that links a series of ledge systems to the top of the wall.

6 short pitches.

Classic. Go climb it.

P1. Short pitch. Locate the line of shiny SS bolts. Difficult friction down low leads to easer terrain above. Belay at a ledge two bolts. 5.10a/b

P.2. Move up into the large flake. Clip bolts, place a large cam, them move up onto the bolt protected face. Another cam placement, then easy face to a large ledge. Only long pitch on the whole climb. 2 bolt belay. 5.9

P3. Head right on the easy crack Go to a large ledge, ignore the bolted belay and move right along the ledge to the base of a corner system.

Build gear belay

. 3rd class

P4. Move up the corner (small cams) then move right, a reachy move to a jug. Bolt anchor. 5.9

P5. Move left onto a easy face, up to another big ledge. 2 bolt anchor. 5.7

P6. 5.9 move bolt protected, then short 5.7 face to the top. Belay off bolt anchor. High fives all around.

Pitches 4-6 could be combined into a single pitch

Protection

10 quick draws, single cams to 3"