Buggery On The High Seas

Pitch #1:

The first bolt is reached by making 5.8 friction moves onto a small sloping ledge. Upon clipping the first bolt, the next series of moves requires solid smearing and an awkward mantle past a sloping dish (5.10c). Continue up past two more bolts on small rounded edges (5.10b). After passing the 3rd bolt, the route eases up a bit and then passes the 4th bolt. The route then steepens again, passing three more bolts along the way. The 1st pitch ends at a two bolt belay, under a small overhang.

Pitch #2:

Start by yarding up over the belay onto a "jug-fest" of chickenheads (5.6)! Sling chickenheads the next 50 feet before reaching the first bolt. Continue on another 50 ft to reach the 2nd bolt (5.7). The last two bolts are shared as the route merges left with 'Whiskey Bill' and 'Mule Train'. Belay at the end of W.B's 3rd pitch at some HUGE, green Metolious rap hangers.

Optional:

Continue up Whiskey Bill for two more pitches (pro to 1/2") before finishing at summit.

'Buggery' was put up in July 2000 (F.A Roger Hayashi and Dave Daly) as a direct variation of 'Whiskey Bill' (5.7). Buggery is situated right of  'Mule Train' on the South Face, which starts up a smooth, steep slab. Locate a line of bolts 25 feet left of a large crack.

• 8 draws

• slings for chickenheads and knobs

• Pro to "1/2"