The Money Shot

Steep splitter cracks mixed with steep face climbing cruxes. Unique, exposed, and improbable. Brandon started this 20 years ago with Scott Thelen. After 2 pitches they jugged out on their "umbilical cord" (fixed lines), stopping to climb the 5th pitch splitter on the way. We came back in 2018 to connect it all and then in 2020 to free it.

A good route for warmer weather as it remains shaded until late afternoon. All anchors bolted

P1 - 10+ 70m - Low angle corner leads to slick face climbing past bolts. Easy to simul with 60m.

P2 - 11 30m - Cool face climbing leads to layback crux to overhanging hands to good ledge.

P3 - 12 25m - Rising traverse to the right. Start with a steep boulder problem on sick crimps. This leads to sit down rest. Rinse and repeat. Then final crux pulling roof with finger and hand crack (look for bolt). Heinous hanging belay. All bolts but a couple finger to thin-hands size can help protect follower and/or c1 it.

P4 - 10+ 30m - Hands to OW to chimney to wild exit moves to another hanging belay.

P5 - 10 30m - Glory hands to crack switch to more glory. Perfect.

P6 - 11+ 30m - Follow bolts up then out of chimney to cool face moves. Then slick as hell slab traverse at the end. Joins SAR at bivy ledge. All bolts

11a, 10d, 5.8 to top.

See Sun Also Rises. Easiest to Rap that route then walk over to this.

2 x small to #3. 1 #4. Belay seat