The Sun Also Rises (Sunset Buttress)

The original route on the bluff and a striking one. Leversee put this up in 1986 (with Paul Martzen) and came back 8 years later after recruiting none other than Scott Cosgrove to help him free it. The route snakes its way up the obvious buttress on the left side of the main wall. It features an even mix of crack and face climbing, though most of the crack climbing consists of liebacking and stemming up incredible water grooves and thin seams. An extremely excellent and sustained line. Although obviously a different style, I consider this thing on par with Romantic Warrior in terms of difficulty and quality. Well protected throughout.

I included the original topo which is mostly useful and accurate. However, there are more bolts than indicated and the grades seem pretty off. I put my best guesses here

Rappel to the base, hanging draws on the first pitch is a good idea.

P1 - 11b 80ft. - From the nice stance and only gear anchor on the route, climb the corner with a couple finger sized pieces, gain a stance on the arete, and work your way over to the belay ledge.

P2 - 12c 115ft. - Some cosgrove shit, by far the crux of the route, imho. Grade is complete guess. Climb up the shallow corner getting a small piece before the first bolt if you want. 6 more closely spaced bolts take you up and then left through thin crux face climbing transitioning into a crack system. Easier climbing up finger cracks lead to the belay.

P3 - 11c 80ft. - The aid route goes straight up, but downclimb the flake off the belay and then traverse right to the arete. Climb up on jugs to clip the first bolt, slightly scary. Keep traversing right to a final crux move to a jug, you may dyno here. Up a bit to a hanging belay. All bolts.

P4 - 11d+ 90 ft. - Traverse back left on good holds then more straight up. Really hard moves lead into and then up a series of seams. All bolt protected IIRC, but maybe take a finger size piece or two.

P5 - 12a 100 ft. - Up to a stance and the first bolt. Hard moves lead right and up into the groove/crack system. A few more bolts gains a rest. Then head up into the cruxy tips crack and keep going until it gets dirty and you can transition to the nice finger crack on the left. Mostly bolts but take a couple pieces from small to hand size. Nice belay ledge.

P6 - 12a 100 ft. - Easy terrain past a couple bolts lead into the groove with a tips crack in the back. Magic your way up this eventually gaining a nice rest below parallel grooves. Lieback and stem your way up to the belay. Awesome and unique pitch. Lots of bolts and gear.

P7 - 11c 130 ft. - Gain the incredible dike and traverse it up and left to its end. Then head straight up to a great ledge. A piece or two for off the belay then all bolts. A ton of draws needed

P8 - 11a 140 ft. - Up the awkward corner, pass some loose flakes, and then pull into the fist crack groove. Up this until a bolt leads you onto the face out left. Up to another nice ledge. Many bolts and gear

P9 - 10d 150 ft. - Sting in the tail for sure. Up and left on cruxy slab (bolts) to get established below a corner. Work your way into it and up it passing a few bolts and lots of gear options.

P10 - 5.8/4th 200 ft. - Step left and then head up the slab. There is an anchor on the right wall to bring up your second. Then it's easy to solo up and left then back right to the glorious topout.

See map in Patterson Left page. You can see the top from the parking/camping spot. Walk to there and rappel to the base.

GPS location for start of raps:

36.92825, -119.095679

Maybe 15 draws. Doubles from tiny (single grey metolius) to #0.5. singles to #4. nuts optional

Two ropes needed at least to below the dike (bottom of P7). 1 70m Miiight get you to the base from there. All bolted anchors except the bottom of pitch 1 which is at a nice ledge 100 ft. off the ground and takes finger size. Most bolts are original but in good shape. All quarter inchers (that protect free climbing) replaced with 1/2" ASCA hardware.