New Music

A hard line to the left of

Fat City

. None of the guide books have reported the complete route, so here it is. All the bolts were drilled on lead from stances.

P1. Start in the incipient groove 20' left of the start of

Fat City

and face climb the groove until you can step left and clip the first bolt. This section is hairy and can be protected if you're good with Tri-cams and RPs. Climb up the bolt line to the 2-bolt belay.

P2. Another incipient groove takes you up to the top of

The "44"

crack. Cross it to the roof, step down and left until you can haul over the roof on good holds. Face climb up (hard) to a left angling groove, or dike, and head left to belay in the first crack system you come to.

P3. Step right and face climb up a buttress to its top. It's easier than it looks; similar, and close to,

High Plains Drifter

. Head up toward the Wilie's Way dihedral and set up a bely when your rope gets tight.

P4. Climb Willie's Way (10+) and keep going and belay at the base of the steep headwall.

P5. Climb the headwall, climbing through the two square roofs on their right sides. Mantle onto the summit.

This requires draws for the bolts and a trad rack trending to the thin stuff.