The Final Chapter

This is an excellent finish to climbs on the right side of the Book. It is a harder, parallel version of

Cheap Date

, although not quite as good as that route. Pick any route that leads up to the Cave area--especially fitting would be a route such as Howling at the Wind or the headwall pitch of

J-Crack

. The route starts in the same place as

Cheap Date

, just left of the bottom of the square-cut inset that harbors the

Cave Exit

. The first 30 or so feet are shared with

Cheap Date

, linking thin, exciting, left-trending 5.9 cracks. There is a good stance where

Cheap Date

splits left; Final Chapter continues straight up. The first ascentionist apparently thought this was the crux, but we both felt it was the top part of the crack (good 2 or 2.5 friend, and small nuts above that to sew it up). It's possible to step right just before this section into an easy chimney with a very loose block.

The route is rated 5.11a, but I should mention that it felt harder to me than any other 5.11 I've done at Lumpy (including

Howling at the Wind

and

Living Dead

, both .11b, and

Stretch Marks

and Little Twin Owls'

Finger Crack

, .11a).

From the ledge atop this pitch, either scramble carefully off right (rope?) and join the standard descent from the

Cave Exit

. Or, continue to the summit, via moderate terrain or the excellent 5.10c final pitch of

Outlander

, about 10-15 feet left.

Bring a full set of RPs, HBs, or equivalent tiny stoppers. Otherwise, gear to a #2.5 Friend.