It’s Not Much of a Tail

P1. 90’, 5.7+ PG-13. Climb through broken rock to a horizontal crack then slightly left using the crack and faceholds to a good stance above the roof. Continue moving up and right past a bolt (crux) to a crack system with good gear. As the crack system gets to 2”  and cuts right, place gear, and move left onto the face through easy runout terrain to a two bolt anchor.

P2. 90’, 5.7 R. Climb 30’ straight up from the anchor on mostly unprotected face. Look for small pockets and chickenheads for gear (it is also possible to stay right in the crack system with good gear at 5.5 before moving left when the crack cuts right into 4th Class terrain. This way is easier and safer, but also less interesting). As the angle eases off after 30’, more gear is available. Scramble over easing terrain to a 2-bolt anchor.

Rap the route with a single 60m rope.

This climb is located near the top of the gully separating Park View and Ranch Hand. Scramble up past large blocks and some loose terrain, looking for a small roof. This climb starts where a horizontal crack cuts through the roof, and can be indemnified by a single bolt about 30’ up.

A single rack 0.3-2 BD, nuts, slings for chickenheads, and a single bolt on P1.