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Peak Mountain 3

Singing Chicken

FA Ben Hobgood, Jeremy Hyatt
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: look for sparse nut placements in the first 30'. After about 30', place medium nuts and cams in a horizontal crack. Continue up a vertical section (crux) to a ramp sloping up to the left where you run it out into a dihedral where you can find more pro.

P2: climb up looking for red blocks, and gain a ledge to the right of them. Traverse a nice, grassy ledge climber's left. There are nice horizontal cracks about 5 feet above the ledge that take medium nuts up to #3 cam for an anchor.

P3: move left from the anchor to sling an arch/hole in the rock for protection just above the anchor, and run it out to a tree 100' up. Belay from pod up and right of the tree.

P4: enjoy chickenheads and good pro to top out.

Walk off / rap: traverse right and north along the canyon wall until you see cairns, downclimb to narrowing gully, rap with 1 60 meter into the gully, and hike out.

This could probably be done in 3 pitches.

There is a good possibility this has been climbed before or free soloed, if anyone knows of a first accent let us know, otherwise at the time we put this up we did not see evidence of a prior ascent.

Location

Parkview Dome has an obvious rib going up the right side that creates left and right-facing dihedrals at the top 1/4 of the dome. This climb starts below the left side of the left dihedral and climbs up rippled rock unprotected on 5.0 for 30 feet into horizontal cracks. Above the cracks, there is an 8’ vertical wall and a right-facing dihedral left up a ramp. See the beta photos.

This route starts down the trail climber's left of "

Hey Ranger!

" at one of the lowest spots on the dome.

Protection

A set of nuts and cams to a #3.