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Peak Mountain 3

Soler

FA Tony Soler, Ray Moore
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The second pitch of this climb is one of the most classic pitches at Seneca! Amazingly, it was first done in 1951! P1: Climb the wide corner/flake sytem to reach a left trending ramp. The first 30 feet can be a bit runout unless you have very large gear. However, with modern camming units, there is gear that can be found in the flake if you search hard for it. Don't let people scare you off because of the tales of runout here. You will be well rewarded by doing the entire route. P2: Climb up from the large ledge to access an overhanging crack system. Follow this crack system to the top. The moves here are absolutely amazing for the grade and the gear is anywhere you want to put it. If you are visiting Seneca, do this route.

Location

Heading left on Broadway ledge from

Castor

and

Pollux

, locate the obvious left facing corner system after

Conn's East Direct

.

Protection

Some very large or very small gear is helpful for P1. The rest of the route takes pretty much any size gear that you have. There's Shuts on the summit that you can lower back to Broadway ledge in one shot with 2 ropes or you can hit an intermediate set of shuts along the way.