Orion’s Belt Direct Finish

Eddie Begoon originally told me about this variation to Orion’s Belt and that he had tried it once but never got around to coming back and sending it. To our knowledge this is a new FA.

Starting on the shallow left facing corner just above Castor, climb Orion’s Belt, but instead of heading to the crack left of the third bolt, continue straight up into a thin incipient crack. Jam fingers and smear feet to make a powerful long move to a crimp, quickly find a crystal to put your foot on to make another crimpy sequence followed by a powerful move up and right to a jug, then continue through easy terrain to the anchors.

The crux protects well, but it is a bit runout to the first bolt.  You can get a .4 BD cam right below the finger lock, there is also a micro stopper placement after the crimpy sequence but it is hard to place when you’re pumped and it’s easier to just keep moving. The crux moves are a bit reachy and maybe height dependent.

The climb with three bolts located at the left side of the sloping ramp just above the first pitch of Castor and left of Bogtrotter. Finishes on the Alcoa Ledge.

Three bolts, a .4 BD cam and micro stoppers. Bolt anchor at the top.