A Song & A Prayer

The south face of Windy Peak is ripe with possible lines, many of them variations to existing lines. This route was spotted by Larry as a possible independent line to the summit via some distinct features that move up the left side of the face, just left of Jubilant Song. After some interesting route finding and some exciting leads, we managed to finish the route and now offer it to those who want some good adventure. Although loose rock is present, the climbing is good and protection is decent.

Pitch 1) Start just right of Jubilant Song on the face and head up moderate rock to the large bushy belay ledge.

Pitch 2) Continue straight up a thin crack splitting the narrow facet of rock about 15 feet to the right of the main Jubilant Song dihedral. Belay in a small alcove just to the right of the seond belay on Jubilant Song.

Pitch 3) It is worthwhile to move the belay up to a better position. Climb up a few feet, then exit left out of the easy chimney to a small belay stance. Number 4 Camalot gives a good anchor in the crack.

Pitch 4) The headwall above is split by a noticeable thin crack going right up the middle of the face. Another thin crack lies a few feet to left and angles back to the middle of the face. The route goes first up, then left to the second crack, then up and right, following the pro to a hanging belay stance a short distance below a dihedral.

Pitch 5) Make a few moves up the soft white rock of the dihedral, then exit right as soon as possible to gain the crack in the dark varnished rock. This exposed position is directly above the huge Jubilant Song roof. When the climbing becomes easy, continue up over large blocks to an alcove. The huge Bandstand Ledge is 30 feet higher over moderate rock.

Pitch 6) Scramble up easy ground until you can make a 4th class switchback to the right and belay on the ledges above. Another 30 feet of third class allow you to exit right onto the summit plateau.

For this route, bring lots of wires, a standard rack to 4" plus a set of Ballnutz and double up on cams to .5". Good use of double ropes will reduce drag on the 4th pitch.