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Peak Mountain 3

Swinging the Other Way

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Description

Someone has definitely climbed this route before because we found a stuck hex on it. If you know the name, let me know and I'll update the route!

Approach as for Jubilant Song. The route starts 50ft down and right of Jubilant Song in a right facing corner. It shares a start with Western Swing.

P1: Climb the corner till it reaches a sloping ledge. Traverse up and right on the ledge to the base of the first left facing corner.

P2: Climb the left facing corner above past an alcove until a small ledge and a hanging belay beneath the large roof.

P3: Work up and slightly left to the left of two notches in the roof. Climb through the slot in the roof (crux of the route), ending up on a low angle slab above. Merge with the third belay on Jubilant Song.

Continue up Jubilant Song.

This is a good route for passing slower parties on Jubilant Song. It is about the same quality of climbing as the first three pitches of Jubilant Song in my opinion and merges back just before the money roof traverse pitch of Jubilant Song.

Protection

Standard Rack