Star Spangled Dangle

This route is a bit contrived but offers a good ride with interesting movement through a series of corners and roofs. A couple of dubious-looking pitons protect the first 30 feet (an optional #2 Camalot or smaller piece offers security through this section as well). Good bolts protect all the hardest climbing. The route takes the line of strength through the bizarre features and is basically a series of boulder problems with good rests in between.

There is a hollow, wedged block in the final roof crux that would be very difficult to avoid using — it seems solid enough for now, but it might not be a bad idea to have your belayer wear a helmet.

The topout entails a little bushwhacking to reach the chain anchor, which is located on a block that is set back a bit from the large ledge where the technical climbing ends (another place to be wary of knocking things down on your belayer).

Look for the rusty piton sticking out of the steep, shallow corner immediately left of

Stand By Your Van

. There is a helpful photo on the overview page for Lower Grotto Wall that shows the location of routes in this sector.

2 pitons, 5 bolts, a chain anchor, and an optional small- to mid-sized cam.