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Peak Mountain 3

Crime Victim

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Description

Yes, this is a link-up, but it's a pretty badass, direct linkup of 3 great routes! This link-up takes the directissima line up the imposing, middle section of Lower Grotto Wall.

The first challenge greets you immediately by climbing

Scene of the Crime

(old school 12+...++). From the anchor, continue straight up into the dihedral pitch of Rocket Man Dihedral (11c, 3" cam optional). At the top of the dihedral, keep climbing straight up to the P1 anchor of

Victims of Fashion

(instead of trending right into Rocket Man's proper anchor). From here, tackle

Victim's

burly 12b/c roof pitch to the final set of anchors.

While there is a lot of hard climbing on this link-up, you do get complete rests at the anchors of each of the individual pitches, which are set on recessed ledges. For reduced rope drag, avoid clipping the mid-anchors along the route; the first bolts of the following pitches are not hard to get to.

Location

Start on

Scene of the Crime

, and continue climbing straight up!

Protection

Bolts, optional 3" cam.

You need a 70 meter rope to lower off of this climb!