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Peak Mountain 3

Pneumonia

FA Joe Herbst and others
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Description

Climbed half way up this line and bailed on a gear anchor. The point up to which I stopped was absolutely awesome. Double cracks, stemming, finger/hand jamming. Reasonable rock. Just below the stack of tat I decided it looked too loose and not protectable. Went back and rappelled the line, and I was happy I stopped when I did. The rest of the climb consists of one side hard varnish, one side complete garbage sugar stone. Pretty wild stemming for what is supposed to be 5.8 and jamming up an OW. Not many good placements for the last 60-80 ft of this climb, generally behind hollow blocks or half-sugary cracks.

To be clear, the R rating is for the second half of this climb.

Location

Look for shallow chimney/double cracks going up to wider chimney.

Protection

Up to half way point, doubles to 3". If you wanted to be a doll and fix a couple small, medium sized hexes to rap off of, or continue up to the sugary thread(not too inspiring, also would probably need a 70m to rap off)