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Peak Mountain 3

Cure for the Common Cold

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Description

This route is a linkup of the two harder variations of Intestinal Flu described in Jerry Handren's guidebook... plus a bit of (possibly?) new climbing at the start. Burly, excellent crack climbing!

I hope to not be presumptuous in giving this obvious linkup a name, but it creates a nearly independent line from Intestinal Flu at a harder grade and is of such quality that it should not be dismissed as mere “variation”. If anyone knows who climbed this terrain first (or if it has a name) let me know and I'll update the description.

In the meantime, this is how it goes:

P1 (70', 5.11-): Instead of heading up the sandy chimney of Intestinal Flu, climb up some flaky rock just down and left to gain a thin crack which can be followed through a bulge, then up the left wall of the chimney, and up to a stance below the chockstone. From here, turn the arete to the left and climb the "excellent splitter" described in the guidebook. Once through the difficulties at a stance below the wide crack of Intestinal Flu, place some gear and down climb 15' to the top of the chockstone and set up a belay.

P2 (40', 5.11+): Follow the intimidating undercling/hand crack up and right, underneath the massive roof, to the anchor of The Tipping Point which is just out of view around the corner. A patch of slick rock devoid of footholds creates a short-lived crux.

Descent: Rap 90'. Bring a pair of quicklinks and rings/biners/short lengths of chain to improve this anchor.

Protection

1x Small to 0.4 Camalot 2x 0.5 to #2 Camalot 1x #3 and #4 Camalot Hardware to improve the anchor.