- Edit (TBD)
Description
Deflowered offers a nice range of crack widths and styles over its length, starting with shallow, flaring twin cracks at the bottom before moving into a nice wide chimney, then a lieback flake, and finally a bit of steep, bouldery fist/OW to the finishing jugs. It's a fun climb in a location that has a really short, easy approach, yet doesn't have a lot of the traffic of the climbs closer to Hidden Valley. Not a showstopper, but definitely fun if you're in the area (and aren't you more or less always in the area?)
Vogel rates this climb a 5.6 -- if so, it's the hardest 5.6 I've climbed at JT. Feels like a good solid 5.7 in my book.
As you enter Steve Canyon from the direction of Hidden Valley CG, Deflowered will be on the right side, about two-thirds of the way up -- on the opposite side of the canyon from Super Roof (Vogel describes this section of Steve Canyon as "Upper East Side (West Face)"). Look for a large chimney that splits the face (5.4); Deflowered takes the slightly narrower crack that starts about 10 feet to the right (down-canyon). Start on top of a large block.
Protection
Standard rack to 3" plus a few slings to reduce rope drag -- the route is straight up and down, but some pieces will have to be placed deep within alcoves and chimneys.