The Decompensator of Lhasa

Located on the right hand face of the upper east side of Steve Canyon. Start off a boulder to the right of the large central chimney system (

Hoopharkz

, 5.4).

From the boulder, reach out right to a horizontal and the left-arching crack system above (small cams). A direct start is possible (5.11c/d) but the complete lack of pro keeps people off. Above, gear in the horizontal protects moves up to steep friction past 2 bolts (crux). Higher, a third bolt protects a traverse right to the arete where a 4th and last bolt protects moves to the top.

As an alternative start, begin some 15-20 right and below the boulder up right slanting cracks to a ledge (5.10a/b). Belay here (to avoid rope drag) and traverse left to the upper bolted face. This is actually the way the first ascent went.

When this was first done in EB's, the smearing seemed way hard; modern rubber has taken the bite out of the difficulty.

BTW, There has never been a fixed anchor on top of this part of the formation. Save a couple pieces for the anchor. Walk-off/Downclimb is to the far left (down and then under large block).

Small to medium cams, 4 bolts.