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Peak Mountain 3

Horndog

FA David Pollari, Shawn Pereto, Brian Kaye Feb 1993.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Horndog is located on the lower reaches of the Solar Slab, about 100 yards to the right (east) of Solar Slab Gully. Approach as per the Gully route but break to the right from the trail at the last moment.

Horndog is a three pitch route that will take you to the giant terrace about a quarter of the way up the Solar Slab cliff. From here you can access many other routes such as (l-r) Going Nuts, Solar Slab, Heliotrope, Sunflower and Sundog.

"Horndog Select" is a continuation of the three pitch Horndog route, climbing above it from the terrace. This section was improved by the addition of two, more difficult pitches at the top, and thus became known as Sundog.

Pitch 1 of Horndog climbs a fairly low angle crack through bizzare black varnish and it takes you up to the right side of a roof. Cut right below the roof - the climbing is quite steep here. Once around the roof, ramp up to the left, climb the face for about fifteen feet and then cut right again, to a large black heuco. Belay here. (5.8, 170 feet)

Pitch 2 continues straight up a black water streak through several more large huecos. As the climbing becomes more steep bear left along a nice finger crack to small ledge. Ramp up right to a giant ledge and belay. (5.8 170 feet)

For the next pitch, you'll have to move your belay station across a shallow chimney to the base of a right leaning fist crack.

Pitch 3 follows the fist crack to the top, which brings you to the terrace. (5.8 140 feet)

Protection

For this three pitch route, you'll only need a standard rack up to 3". There are no fixed anchors.