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Peak Mountain 3

Certain Air

FA John Godar, Susan Godar - 12/2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line climbs through the steep roofs just to the left of Horndog and tops out at the base of Upper Solar Slab. Good rock and good gear are found the entire way. It runs through the first two roofs then around the third, finishing on fun face climbing to the top. The exposed crux is the second roof.

Pitch 1 and 2 were originally done in two short pitches (one roof each pitch) to avoid rope drag but can easily be linked. Pitch 4 is also the original finish to Horndog.

Pitch 1-5.8-Climb crack on arete of formation then veer right onto varnished face and back into corner below roof. Climb out roof to ledge and belay or link with P2. Pitch 2-10b/c-Climb steep roof. Belay below third roof. Pitch 3-5.6-Climb right under third roof on giant knobs then over roof as soon as possible. Straight up to top. Pitch 4-5.8-Climb crack to the left of obvious left-facing flake that starts near top of gulley.

Protection

Thin to 4", long slings if you link P1,2. All natural anchors, no fixed gear on route.