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Peak Mountain 3

Mayflower

FA 2003 Meschinelli, Johnston, Munn, Eisinger
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch is very popular, but unfortunately, the rest is a mystery to most. If the top pitch of this otherwise fun climb would clean up, it might be worthy of 4 stars. Like most or the other routes on the Pilgrim Wall, three very different pitches, with an exposed, final hanging corner. DO IT!

P1: Up the face, trending right past many bolts, aiming for a crack. Follow the crack (5.7) up to a beautiful ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c

P2: Move left off the belay into a left facing corner with a crack. Follow the crack and face up to a lone bolt below another left facing shallow corner. Protect well with smallish gear, make some pumpy moves, and gain a small ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9+

P3: Beautiful moves up and right, passing bolts, aiming for the hanging corner above. Make a hard entry move into the corner, and then stem and face climb your way up the corner (dirty), with small stoppers as protection, to a grassy ledge with another 2 bolt anchor. 5.10c

Location

The leftmost bolted face on the Pilgrim Wall, about 5 feet right of the dirty start to It Don't Come Easy.

Protection

Bolts and a full rack up to a #2 Camalot. RP's advisable also.


Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face


  1. 62
    Mayflower
    5.10c
    Trad