- Edit (TBD)
Description
A very high quality and adventurous route that links a series of corner systems on the left side of the Big Wall. A worthy objective and highly recommended. The hardware has been updated and the route has recently been recleaned by the FA party.
P1-Spicy 5.9 face climbing leads to a right facing corner. Up this to an overlap. Exit left (5.10) to another right facing corner and a belay.
P2-Climb up to a bolt above the belay beneath a small roof. Crank over the roof (5.11) and into a right facing corner. Continue up past a bolt into an alcove of sorts and climb over another overlap into a left facing corner beneath a roof. Tiptoe out right and pull the roof into a right facing corner. Desperately climb past a bolt to an improbable stance and the belay (11+). It's best to continue around the corner, clip a bolt, then downclimb and belay from the p2 anchor of Extreme Unction.
P3-Climb the right facing corner, eventually stepping left out on to the face. Climb through the dike rock to belay out right (5.9).
P4-Climb straight up the face past two bolts to a stance with a third bolt above an overlap. Make a technical traverse left (5.11; pulling harder will get you nowhere) to a left facing corner with a crack. Up the crack through a bulge (5.11) to a stance at a large block. Climb up and right to the belay.
P5-Climb straight up off the belay to a roof. A funky sequence exits the left side of the roof to the belay.
P6-Face climb a lower angle slab to an anchor. Protection has been added to this pitch by the FA party and it is no longer R (5.9).
Rappel the route with a single rope.
Location
Left side of the Big Wall, below a shallow right facing corner 30 feet up.
Protection
A single rack of cams to 2" (including micro cams) small to medium wires, RPs
Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
- 56The Gathering5.11+Trad