The Friction Route

This is the smooth low angle face to the left of the prominent chimney/dihedral on the lower tier. Start climbing at an oak tree (probably charred stump now) on the left side and move up small left arete, moving right to a bolt. Two more bolts lead to the top.

It's bolted, but with three (still old 1/4" bolts?) in 85 feet you can't really call it sport.