Friable Icicle

Situated between Frito Bandito and Shady Lane. Head up a finger crack to under a roof. Pull the roof (straight up) to a ledge. Head up and left and lieback a wide crack. Up and left around a bush lies the bolted rap anchor. Due to the nature of the area and zero traffic on this route the rock is rough and friable in parts. I dislodged a 20 pound flake on the FA with negligible force. Due to my being cavalier on the FA, I went up with only a t-shirt for warmth. After pulling the roof rope drag became a bear and I spent some time sussing out a face that goes straight up before choosing the crack to the left. I set up a belay at the end of the crack and swear I was going hypothermic (hence Friable Icicle) at the end of a windy day. When I saw the bolts 15' of easy face climbing above the belay I had to kick myself.

Just right of the chimney route on the lower tier of Stonewall Peak. Finish at bolted rap anchor.

Small Aliens to large cams (#3-4 C4 Camalots). Be careful when rappelling; it is almost exactly 100' to the ground from the bolted rap anchor.